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Does Gua Sha Really Work? Myths and Realities Behind the Skincare Craze

Gua sha is an ancient Chinese healing technique that’s been used across Asia — but does gua sha really work? Today, the practice is catching on with a new international audience, who are increasingly turning to gua sha for skincare and cosmetic benefits.

The traditional scraping practice brings some important benefits to the table – and also a few myths to dispel. For this week’s explainer, we’re breaking down some fast facts around gua sha.

What is Gua Sha?

Gua sha basically translates to “scraping sand.” Gua implies scraping or rubbing, while sha refers to the ‘redness’ or ‘sand-like’ texture that appears after the treatment, which is considered vital to the healing process.

Usually, practitioners will use a smooth-edged instrument made from jade, stone, or animal bone/horn. The skin is prepared with an oil, and the tool is used to deliver short or long strokes along the affected area, encouraging microcirculation within the soft tissue and boosting blood flow. The strokes are generally performed in the direction of the heart, aligning with the body’s meridians of qi flow.

In traditional Chinese medicine, gua sha helps to remove blockages of qi, circulating areas of stuck energy. By manipulating the qi in specific ways, practitioners can treat a wide variety of conditions through the body’s feedback loops.

Gua sha can be used all over the body. The neck, legs, and arms are all common areas to receive gua sha, but the back is the main site of traditional gua sha, where the practitioner has access to the organs. Today though, facial gua sha is gaining popularity for cosmetic purposes.

The characteristic bruising of traditional gua sha has been known to scare those unfamiliar with the practice

Is Gua Sha Legit?

Gua sha as a practice is often looked at with skepticism in the West – and the deep-colored bruising it brings has certainly raised a few alarms. But the practice makes more sense, and really seems perfectly natural, when viewed through the lens of traditional Chinese medicine.

In TCM, all diseases can be traced to a root of improper flow. Stagnation and blockages lead to inflammation and pain, and practitioners seek to optimize the healthy flow of the body’s systems. Gua sha encourages healthy circulation in the bloodstream; in that sense, the bruising certainly serves as proof that blood is moving around.

More and more, scientific exploration into gua sha is finding results that back up the TCM perspective.

For instance, a 2009 study published in the Journal of Pain and Symptom Management found that Gua Sha reduced chronic neck pain in patients compared to a control group that received thermal heating. Another study in 2011 in the American Journal of Chinese Medicine reported a positive immune response and an increase in microcirculation peripheral to the site of treatment.

When it comes to facial gua sha, a peer-reviewed study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that the practice could improve bio-physiological parameters like skin elasticity and blood circulation, suggesting potential anti-aging effects.

The History of Gua Sha

The roots of gua sha go back to the Paleolithic Age, when early humans scraped their skin with stones to relieve pain – but it wasn’t until the Ming Dynasty that gua sha started to receive formal documentation in Chinese medical texts.

The technique originated as a folk healing practice, and people around the world today still use items like coins or soup spoons to perform the scraping on family members.

Over time, gua sha began to integrate into the wider canon of traditional Chinese medicine, which led to the development of the more formal techniques we see today.

So does gua sha work? Well it must be having some positive effect, because in the 20th and 21st centuries, there’s been a huge surge of popularity in gua sha worldwide. With more people than ever before seeking non-invasive ways to promote health and wellbeing, gua sha is starting to appear at spas, wellness centers, and in the skincare product aisle.

The Modern Trend of Facial Gua Sha

In recent years, facial gua sha has emerged as a significant trend in the wellness and beauty industries – the hashtag #guasha brings up 685,000 posts on Instagram and 2.1 billion views on TikTok.

TikTok is one platform experiencing a wave of gua sha interest

Unlike traditional gua sha which focuses on the entire body, facial gua sha targets the skin on the face and neck. The strokes are softer and more delicate than those used on the body; don’t worry, no red marks or bruising here. But does facial gua sha work?

Benefits range from reduced puffiness and wrinkles to improved complexion and skin firmness, and many on social media seem to be intrigued by the idea of a sharper jawline.

Tutorials and explanations featuring colorful jade and rose quartz gua sha tools, as well as progress reports showing users’ week-to-week facial transformations, are both popular across social media platforms.

What is the Best Stone for Gua Sha?

If you’re looking to get started with gua sha, you’ve probably come across some of the different tools involved: curved stones and delicate rollers are both popular choices.

But beyond that, you’ll also have to decide what material you want to use, with each option believed to offer its own benefits:

Jade

Perhaps the most popular choice for Gua Sha tools, jade has been used for centuries in China due to its cooling properties and the effect of balancing qi.

Rose Quartz

Known as the stone of love, rose quartz is another popular choice, particularly for facial gua sha, since it is associated with promoting self-love and emotional healing. From a practical perspective, rose quartz stays cool for longer, which can help reduce puffiness and inflammation.

Bian Stone

Bian stones are considered the original gua sha stones, with a history dating back thousands of years to the Si river in what is now Shandong. They are believed to emit ultrasonic impulses when rubbed against the skin, promoting circulation.

Buffalo Horn

It may not be a stone, but buffalo horn is definitely a traditional gua sha material. It’s believed to help reduce heat and inflammation, and is often used for body gua sha.

Amethyst

Known for its calming properties, amethyst is believed to promote emotional balance. It’s often used in facial gua sha and is thought to help reduce acne and inflammation.

Each material has its unique properties and potential benefits, but there isn’t a definitive ‘best’ stone for gua sha. Some people might prefer the cooling touch of jade, while others might lean towards the soothing properties of rose quartz.

Ultimately, the best Gua Sha stone is one that suits an individual’s needs and feels right to them.

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Wading into gua sha today, you might be surprised at the unique blend of ancient tradition and modern wellness practice.

The technique, once known mostly for frightening uninformed Westerners, has seen a resurgence in recent years, with a particular focus in the skincare realm. Jade and rose quartz derma rollers are all over TikTok, and they don’t look like they’ll be leaving anytime soon.

While scientific research into gua sha is still ongoing, people everywhere have already embraced it as part of their own wellness practice. Dermatologists, too, are beginning to acknowledge the benefits of gua sha, from improved circulation to a glowing complexion or a sharper jawline.

No matter how you feel about gua sha, the practice looks here to stay – so you might as well grab a jade roller and try it out for yourself.

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